http://forums.thecarlounge.com/ VWVortex –A leading Discussion and News Forum for Volkswagen, Audi, European Automobiles and the Enthusiasts’ that drive them. en Sat, 19 May 2012 00:31:00 GMT vBulletin 60 http://forums.thecarlounge.com/images/misc/rss.png http://forums.thecarlounge.com/ http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693309-Any-one-actually-use-middle-grade-gas&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:30:49 GMT at least where i live its 87, 89, 93. i was just wondering does any one actually use 89. i don't think ever in my life I've seen some one fill there car with 89. its rather regular or super.

personally i fill all my cars 93. does any one use plus? and why? i also haven't seen a car require it. only require 93. or 87. ]]> The Car Lounge Minty_Fresh http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693309-Any-one-actually-use-middle-grade-gas http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693308-Beautiful-summer-evening-let-the-projects-begin!&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:27:36 GMT Threw the Autotech 2.5 inch catback on today, had it since x-mas. The stock exhaust had seen better days over the last 10 years, it was rotting away.... Threw the Autotech 2.5 inch catback on today, had it since x-mas. The stock exhaust had seen better days over the last 10 years, it was rotting away. It sounds nice now. Next week is a full front end rebuild, control arms, tierods, ball joints, bushings, axles, rotors, calipers, ss brake lines, etc.



]]> White Jetta http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693308-Beautiful-summer-evening-let-the-projects-begin! http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693307-DIY-Fix-clean-MK4-Jetta-gas-door-switch&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:27:14 GMT Did your gas door switch start to work only every once in a while? My gas door switch started working only on every 5 tries, then on every 50, then... Did your gas door switch start to work only every once in a while? My gas door switch started working only on every 5 tries, then on every 50, then on every thousand tries, and when it worked I would hear the actuator zzroop! noise in the back just like normal (2001 Jetta). So I decided it had to be the switch and I decided to take it apart and clean anything I could get exposed to my electrical connector cleaner spray. Guess what, it worked! Switch works on every try now, here's what I did:


1. Pry the driver door armrest window/lock switches off the door panel at the front and back gently with a flat head screwdriver. After some tugging it will pop right off. Then disconnect the electrical connection.

2. Remove Driver door panel - there are 3 Torx bits along the bottom. There's also a philips screw at the top near the mirror.

3. Take screwdriver and gently pry door panel off. disconnect door latch (chrome hook) from back of door latch. Make note of how it reattaches first. I managed to get mine back on alright. Under this, there are 3 big phillips screws holding the door panel on here. Remove these.

4. disconnect all other electrical connectors from the back of the door panel. This will enable you to flip the door panel over and take off the gas switch.

5. To get the gas switch off, you need to use a small thin knife or flat screwdriver. Pry on both sides where the switch slides "up" into it's hole. There are plastic grooves to keep it there. Pry a little on both sides and pull it out.




6. Once you have the switch off the door, now you need to gently pop the little plastic cap that covers the electrical switch, off the top of the switch. It's easy, just pry it off gently from both sides with a knife or precision screwdriver and set the cap down somewhere where you won't lose it. This will expose the electronics.





7. Look at the underside of the switch where it connects to the plug in. This has to be cleaned in case the electrodes are corroded, which interferes with the connection. Mine looked ok, no crusty green corrosion but I cleaned it anyway. Use a tiny knife or precision screwdriver and scrape the sides of the electrodes on both sides, to help loosen any dirt or corrosion that might have accumulated in there, and expose the bare metal again. It's a tight spot but trust me it can't hurt to do it. In case it's only one of those electrode tabs that is really the problem, you need to do them all. I also gently pried mine very slightly to the side so they'd scrape on their way back into the female end of the plug (optional).

8. Once that is done take the actual switch between index finger and thumb and drown the switch completely with Electrical connector cleaner spray (aerosol can) all over until it's dripping, and spray some more. This spray has solvents and some kind of alcohol type stuff that dissolves crap and then dries up quickly leaving no moisture. Drown this sucker soaking wet until it is dripping wet with the cleaner. I even blasted mine from the side, into the connectors, from above and all angles to really get inside it. Don't be shy, soak the thing for several seconds. What can you lose, switch wasn't opening the door before was it?



9. Set the switch down on a shelf and go surf the internet for 10-15 minutes.

10. Go back out and before reassembling the switch, connect it to the electrical connector sticking out the door. Try the switch. Does it work now? Mine did on every try. :) Just like new.

If it doesn't work, and you have enough gas, drive to the dealer and get a new switch, and if that doesn't work, actuator.

*** If you are out of gas and will need top pop open the gas door, don't force it open from the outside! This will FUBAR your gas door latch putting you deeper in the hole. Pull down the carpet inside the trunk and reach for the spot where the latch is located. Grab the long thing that goes toward the gas lid, and gently pull it to the back of the car. It's connected to the actuator. This will pop the lid. It's just about impossible to see as the carpet is hard to pull down far enough. Just reach in and fumble around and eventually you'll find it like me, and it will open. ***

11. If the switch works, reassemble everything in reverse order. Take your time and don't forget to reconnect every small connector wire that's hanging from the door back to where it belongs. Rehook the door latch (chrome hook) pop the door panel back onto the door, refasten the Torx screws and the 3 big phillips screws under the arm rest. Then plug the armrest electrical connector back in, and pop this back onto the door.

You should be done. Hopefully this will help save some people from buying switches that just needed a good cleaning. I figure its worth a try as the door panel pretty much has to come off anyway to install a new switch. ]]> vwooom http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693307-DIY-Fix-clean-MK4-Jetta-gas-door-switch http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693306-how-do-I-replace-01M-filler-tube&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:26:37 GMT How do I replace the ATF filler tube on my 01M? Do I need to drop the pan? Do I just muscle it off? Planning on replacing everything: oring,... How do I replace the ATF filler tube on my 01M?
Do I need to drop the pan?
Do I just muscle it off?

Planning on replacing everything: oring, tube, stopper, cap. think i may have a leak,
thanks ]]> Automatic Transmission Forum mrtimo http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693306-how-do-I-replace-01M-filler-tube http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693305-Anyone-debadged-and-delocked-their-wagons-rear&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:26:29 GMT Anyone got pics of the wagon rear end de-badged and the lock smoothed over? Or anything else? Just looking for ideas Anyone got pics of the wagon rear end de-badged and the lock smoothed over?
Or anything else? Just looking for ideas ]]> Seatman http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693305-Anyone-debadged-and-delocked-their-wagons-rear http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693304-WTB-Stage-3-Parts&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:26:12 GMT Looking for: Clutch- Something to hold Frankenturbos and some abuse Motor / Trans Mounts aftermarket 85mm MAF with Sensor FMIC with... Looking for:

Clutch- Something to hold Frankenturbos and some abuse

Motor / Trans Mounts aftermarket

85mm MAF with Sensor

FMIC with Piping

Maybe some other parts - Let me know what you have ]]> A4, S4 and RS4 (B5) Parts AWDLAUNCH http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693304-WTB-Stage-3-Parts http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693303-BBS-RC-330-18x8-NJ&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:26:02 GMT BBS RC 330 18x8 et32 NJ

These aren't the RC's commonly found on GLI/337 these are the 8 inch version not 7.5s.

They have almost new Nitto Neogens all around!

215/40 fronts
225/40 rears

$750 would consider trades on these;)


















]]> 5x100 Classifieds sometruthlies http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693303-BBS-RC-330-18x8-NJ http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693302-Show-us-your-sub-installs-wagon-owners&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:24:51 GMT What you got? Anyone got a discreet install? Show me your pics please as I'm looking for ideas.


Cheers ]]> Seatman http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693302-Show-us-your-sub-installs-wagon-owners http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693301-VR6-swap-questions&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:24:41 GMT This is already in the General discussion, I forgot to place it in the VW section lol. Aaaaaaaanywho, here's my question:


I'm sure there's probably a thread on this, but I was wondering if it was possible to cop an MK3 VR6 to slap in my MK4 2.Slow A/T

I love my car, and I was originally just thinking about rebuilding the stock block and slapping a Neuspeed pulley on it, but that only gives me 50% more HP and torque or something along those lines so I was wondering since the Neuspeed charger costs around the same as a high-mileage MK4 VR6 is it even worth it? I might as well see if I can get an MK3 VR6 since they are WAYYYY cheaper.

But yeah, I just want to know if the MK3 VR6 swap is possible or if it's gonna end up being more $$ in the long run. ]]> jazzyboy_2.0 http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693301-VR6-swap-questions http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693300-coolant-Purple-G12....&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:23:58 GMT I have pink G12 coolant runnin through my motor right now. I need to add can I mix with the "NEW" purple G12 plus plus? Thx in advance. ]]> 1.8T Engine Forum Wheelman718 http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693300-coolant-Purple-G12.... http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693299-How-to-replace-sat-and-amp-plastic-covers&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:23:19 GMT Hey all,

I recently installed an RCD-510 in my R and I'm trying to figure out how to reinstall the black plastic cover over the sat receiver under my passenger seat? I've tried everything and can't get it to "click" into place.

The same goes for the driver's side when I installed the Dynaudio amp. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks guys in advance! And yes I searched but couldn't find what I was looking for...

:wave::beer::beer: ]]> Golf V R32 Katie83 http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693299-How-to-replace-sat-and-amp-plastic-covers http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693298-coolant-Purple-G12....&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:22:46 GMT I have pink G12 coolant runnin through my motor right now. I need to add can I mix with the "NEW" purple G12? Thx in advance. ]]> 1.8T Engine Forum Wheelman718 http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693298-coolant-Purple-G12.... http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693297-Ignition-coil&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:20:48 GMT Hi All, so 2 days ago battery appeared dead so I charged it. It drove fine the whole next day. The next morning car wouldnt start again so threw... Hi All, so 2 days ago battery appeared dead so I charged it. It drove fine the whole next day. The next morning car wouldnt start again so threw battery on charger, installed try to start car an got just a very rapid clicking no turn over. threw the meter on the battery its reading 12.4V, there is power to the ignition coil. Checked resistance on the coil, manual says secondary resistance should be between 4000-6000 ohms. I got about 1400. Now should the key be in the start position to check resistance. Or could it still be the battery even though it reads full charge. Car is 2000 Jetta 2.0
TIA. ]]> Dmyze http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693297-Ignition-coil http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693296-my-bluetooth-voice-on-my-2012-cc-is-in-german-yet-I-set-it-for-english&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:20:39 GMT Anyone know how to fix this? Dealer didn't have an answer, when I hit the mic button she speaks in German to me? Any help would be appreciated.:banghead: ]]> CC J.Iverson http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693296-my-bluetooth-voice-on-my-2012-cc-is-in-german-yet-I-set-it-for-english http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693295-Boston-north-shore-upholsterer&goto=newpost Sat, 19 May 2012 00:18:47 GMT Can anyone reccomend a good shop to get my seats re trimmed and headliner done. Northeast mass or southern nh? Let me know! Thanks Can anyone reccomend a good shop to get my seats re trimmed and headliner done. Northeast mass or southern nh? Let me know! Thanks ]]> New England 98GLSBOSTON http://forums.thecarlounge.com/showthread.php?5693295-Boston-north-shore-upholsterer