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    Thread: DIY: Replace T-Stat housing and Crack Pipe (12v VR6)

    1. 09-06-2008 10:04 PM #51
      YAAAY I just got done doing this to my car and NO LEAKS!!! Wahoo!
      I didn't take off my smog pump however. I just undid the 3 bolts holding on the plastic clip and the ones 2 that attach to the intake manifold and let it wobble around. I just pulled out the old pipe (just giving it the ol' 1-2 pull) behind the whole mess (so it comes out by the battery) and slipped in the new one. I put a little coolant on the o ring and it slipped right in. with the smog pump wobblin around I had enough room to get my hand int here and some small channel locks to reattach the hose going to the oil cooler. If you want to repalce that hose, you will have to take off the smog pump tough, because otherwise you are never going to get to the oil cooler clamp. My hose was in good shape so I said "F" it and let it stay.
      Cheers for a great DIY!!!!!!

    2. 09-06-2008 10:26 PM #52
      Oh, BTW this whole procedure start to finish took about 6 hours, and that included a trip to the parts store (about 30 mins) for a new air filter.

    3. 09-08-2008 09:54 PM #53
      successful crack pipe replacement. Thanks for takin the time to present this DIY. It worked!!! Careful takin the SAI pump out...
      Much obliged to those who contributed!!! Thanks again!! Beers in the fridge, help yourself!!

    4. 09-10-2008 03:11 PM #54
      Awesome guide! Just got finished doing mine yesterday. Here's a pic of my madness.

    5. 11-21-2008 04:47 PM #55
      Well I am about to tackle this. Thank god for the DIY.
      TDI for the win !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    6. Member rigger's Avatar
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      11-21-2008 11:48 PM #56
      done. and done.
      had to use a little dremel action on the block where the crack pipe inserts to get off all the rust/crude. slid in nice after!
      BTW, beware of the drain plug on the pipe. I think mine is missing the o-ring because it drips a little. have to go drain the pipe and check sometime.
      also, the secondary air injector hose -> block is a bitch to get off.

    7. Member Miss Krys's Avatar
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      11-22-2008 11:37 PM #57
      Has anyone done this JUST replacing the crackpipe. I dun have the money for the whole thing and that's what's leaking. But do you have to remove the smog pump to just do the crackpipe? I will be attempting tommorrow.

    8. 11-23-2008 09:41 AM #58
      With the thermostat housing alone, it can actually be done without even pulling the lock carrier (difficult, but possible). In order to get the crack pipe out, you have to have the thermostat housing out first. If I were doing it again on the 12v, I would try pulling the pipe without messing with the SAI pump, but I don't know if it's physically possible.
      This picture shows what I think would be the biggest hurdle:

      The white arrows and the red arrow point to brackets which you will probably need to get at to free the pipe. From my 24v I did a few weeks ago, the alternator wire was routed though those brackets, and had to be released before I could pull the pipe through. I don't know that you can physically get to them with the pump in the way, but it's definitely worth a shot. On my 24v, the SAI pump is located differently and was not in the way at all so I don't have a great frame of reference. When I did the one on my wife's 12v last year, I pretty much followed this DIY to the letter.

    9. 12-03-2008 11:00 AM #59
      I had my 2000 GTI VR6 overheat on the way home last week. It's had a *very* slow leak (as in maybe a 1 liter bottle to refill the reservoir every other month) for a year or two. There was still water in it so I wasn't low on coolant - as expected it was the thermostat. I don't work on cars since I sold my '70 Nova SS so I took it to a local repair shop. Here's the details:
      Thermostat: $74
      Thermostat housing: $216
      Thermostat gasket: $16
      Thermostat gasket x4: $16
      Diagnostic fee + Labor + Rad flush/fill: $169
      Total = $515 + tax
      I was also told I have a small crack where the hose/radiator meet causing a slow leak. They tried to fix it with stop leak + epoxy and failed. They wanted $286 for a new radiator. I declined. I'm afraid it's time to look for another car and it will not be a VW. Can't afford them.

    10. 12-09-2008 02:48 PM #60
      ^^^^
      The mechanic was trying to rip you off hard-core.
      I just replaced my temp sensor, thermostat, and thermostat housing yesterday. (If this is all you are doing... DO NOT pull the lock carrier. I would have been so mad had I done that, as it was most definitely NOT needed.)
      Anyways, here are the prices I got from a local import shop in Phoenix.
      Thermostat $19.99
      Thermostat Housing $79.00 with an aditional $27 for the cover.
      Temp sensor $7.00
      Gaskets $so cheap I don't remember the price.
      Then again, I had to rent a non-VW (a.k.a. not a P.O.S. car) to drive while my P.O.S. VW was once again waiting for parts.

    11. Member
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      12-09-2008 02:50 PM #61
      Quote, originally posted by jjholmquist »
      ^^^^
      The mechanic was trying to rip you off hard-core.
      I just replaced my temp sensor, thermostat, and thermostat housing yesterday. (If this is all you are doing... DO NOT pull the lock carrier. I would have been so mad had I done that, as it was most definitely NOT needed.)
      Anyways, here are the prices I got from a local import shop in Phoenix.
      Thermostat $19.99
      Thermostat Housing $79.00 with an aditional $27 for the cover.
      Temp sensor $7.00
      Gaskets $so cheap I don't remember the price.
      Then again, I had to rent a non-VW (a.k.a. not a P.O.S. car) to drive while my P.O.S. VW was once again waiting for parts.

      Good job, but really; it only takes like what, 5 minutes, to pull the lock carrier once you have done it a bunch of times. Pull the bumper, remove the headlights, and 4 bolts and you have the lock carrier pulled.
      Mike
      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    12. 12-10-2008 11:18 AM #62
      Well, I am appreciative of the guides. I was just pretty aggrevated that this paid off car that I have treated very nicely keeps breaking every other month.
      I have spent 5 grand on my GLX this year. Would have been a pretty good down payment for a new car... These things aren't worth fixing if you aren't a tuner.
      I have never done the lock carrier thing before, but I really doubt it takes five minutes. And if it does, you are either a VW mechanic or have done it a lot of times (meaning your car breaks a lot.)
      At any rate, the T-stat housing is very easy to remove once you have all the cooling hoses out, which isn't hard if you know how to use vice grips. I think I only got one bloody knuckle, that tells me "plenty of access with front bumper on car."

    13. Member krautuner's Avatar
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      12-28-2008 10:30 AM #63
      Thank you for this DIY I found it mid-way through the project and it helped a ton!
      I used the Mason Tech Billet Crack Pipe and I'd recommend it to anyone doing this job.

    14. 01-13-2009 12:05 PM #64
      I want to thank all of you for the information in this thread. I just had to do this repair on my girlfriend's 99 MK4 Jetta VR6 while on vacation, in a driveway with limited tools. I've never worked on a VR6 before and this write up was invaluable. I like to take a lot of pictures when I do work like this just in case if I forget where anything goes. If they'll be of any help to anyone, you can view them here:
      http://smg.photobucket.com/alb...0VR6/

    15. 03-17-2009 06:01 PM #65
      Just purchased a German spec 95 VR6 Passat "exclusive". I noticed the oil cooler hose was split. Had my German buddy pick one up from while he was in town. He was taking off the hose when I heard him say some not so nice words in German. I look over at him shaking my head and said now do you understand what we mean when we say crack pipe? We came upstairs, looked at this DIY, and saw it took a weekend. The German guy HATES VW's, as a matter a fact he works at the Mazda dealer, and all his family memebers drive Mazadas. We went back downstairs, and had the crack pipe off in 5 minutes, removing 2 bolts. Guess what the Germans don't have? Yep, no dumb ass American air pump, SWEET!!!! Thanks for the info though. Oh by the way I opened up the Passat and drove it 200 kph for about 30 miles on the Autobahn, yeah it was fun, but it was getting about 6 mpg. Good thing my 07 GTI is the autobahn cruise, it gets 12 at 125 mph.
      90 Corrado 222 whp (sold) , 95 Rolling Stones (Germany, sold), 07 GTI, German tuned, 170 GPS mph, Nurburgring BEAST , 96 A6 Avant (Germany 200 PS, 260 kph) , 93 Passat Combi (German F-150), 96 Passat Combi, VR6, euro spec, 240 kph, 89 Cabriolet (Germany, FUN), 01 TT, baseball, Quattro, 225 hp, 45K in 01, 9.3K in 12, owned by 40+ Year old woman, never chipped, still has paper air filter box, always garaged

    16. 08-20-2009 01:27 PM #66
      I just finished this DIY... great writeup BTW
      I replaced the crackpipe, the oil cooler nipple was broken off.
      All good... but now that it's all back together, the car wont start... it cranks but it wont start. And eventually the oil light comes up.
      Any ideas what I could've messed up? or forgot to plug in... I really don't want to open the whole thing up again... sigh!

    17. Member MarkedIVGTI's Avatar
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      09-19-2009 01:00 PM #67
      To who ever wrote this, did you give gruvenparts.com the permission to post this on their site? See below:
      http://www.gruvenparts.com/web...n.htm
      1k OEM+ Build Thread << On Hold until I have a garage to pull it apart myself.

      5 Feet or 5 Miles an hour.

      VRalliance #93

    18. Member b5in's Avatar
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      09-25-2009 11:18 AM #68
      I DUB 4 FUN B!TCHES
      W8...ALLROAD...MKIV 2.SLOOOOOOOW

    19. Member joedubbs's Avatar
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      10-06-2009 08:02 PM #69
      i make no claim to mechanical skills. i mostly have done brakes, oil, plugs coils, stereo, wheels etc.. So I must be a Broodling on account of at the six hour mark I freed the crack pipe. That **** smog pump stumped me for almost an hour. My factory water pipe broke right where the oil cooler water send hose plugs in, leaving a bunch of plastic bits in the hose. What a piece of junk, then again I have one of the oldest mk4s. Gonna start back up when I have some sunlight to work with. Thanks for the write up!!!

    20. Member ejackson_5's Avatar
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      01-03-2010 01:30 AM #70
      Going to attempt this tomorrow. Got a silly question though. I'm just doing the thermostat and cover, do I need to drain coolant first? The system is pretty full, just a small leak right now. I assume some coolant will come out just don't know how much or what to expect. TIA.

    21. 01-17-2010 05:05 PM #71
      Guys I am in the middle of this DYI and I have to say this is very hard to do.
      I have a 2002 GTI VR6 12v and the Crack Pipe is leaking really bad.
      So far I have removed the battery, the air filter case, and the thermostat housing.
      Now I am trying to remove the Crack Pipe but I just can not figure how to remove it. I want to know if the whole steps were written expecting the from bumper with the head lights, the radiator and fans off?
      I have not removed any of these parts off and now I am stuck at the part where the crack pipe is next to come out. I do no have space to work from the front top of the engine and I can not reach the air pump.
      I just want to know if is necessary to remove the front bumper just like in the picture, and if is necessary to remove it, how can you remove all that?
      Thank you all.

    22. Member nyphats's Avatar
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      01-17-2010 06:13 PM #72
      This thread makes me really happy to have a 1.8!

    23. Member
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      02-16-2010 06:43 PM #73
      Does this walkthrough fit for a tstat housing replace on a MkIII VR6?
      BTW, I'm a little scared about this one but I'm ready.....VW of Chicago just quoted me 330 in parts and 3.5 hours at 130/hr. WTF!!

    24. Member Tropic09's Avatar
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      03-22-2010 09:41 AM #74
      just finished mine took me a long time! basicly prolly close to 10 hours. Well first it took around6 hours total but vw/audi makes a poor design temperature housing (the peice that clamps to the block) the O ring was too small and it seemed that the only pressure points that held were where the bolts went it. Basicly i got the car back together and it was leaking from a weakpoint in the housing. I tourqed them the same but the sealant on the housing is very poorly designed. I used some gasket sealer where the O ring is it seemed to have worked. My advice just put some gasket sealer on before messing around with that. Also take your time there are allot of fragile hoses that wouldnt mind breaking.

    25. Member boosted_mk4gti's Avatar
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      07-31-2010 12:42 PM #75
      good write up

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